Not Piccioli picking up his last payslip
Alessandro, sweetie, do not Guccify Valentino
Wait, is that Mercury retrograde scheduled for Monday? As in, April Fool’s Day? The joke really is on us, and Diddy, this year. Shifting our focus from astrology to what-the-f*ckology, first and foremost, a warm welcome to our new subscribers. Somehow, you've found yourself wanting to experience the at times mercurial, often discerning, but invariably on-point minds of not one, but TWO May Geminis. To that, we say, grab a cup.
On the agenda: Alessandro Michele and his 22 inch mane resurface to take the helm at Valentino, while Pierpaolo Piccioli exits the brand after an illustrious 25-year tenure. Dries Van Noten says enough is enough, and well... BJÖRK! RIHANNA!
Flash back to November 2023, when Vogue featured a home tour whose decor screamed excessive, ethereal but expensive. That apartment belonged to the diva of Rome, Alessandro Michele. Skip the opulence for a sec and there's a notable quote from the article's intro: "He has a particular fondness for faded beauties, rundown places brimming with history and faded grandeur."
This line alone could prompt speculation about Michele's perspective on Gucci. After all, he served as the brand's Creative Director for seven years before officially stepping down from the role in 2022. If such a view were true, it wouldn't just be slightly delusional but kinda funny too.
Michele's out-of-the-box and noncommercial designs at Gucci may have left their mark on Instagram fashion, yet sadly, his impact was transient. Trying and failing to make 'Guccify yourself' happen, his collections lacked the timeless quality that could have seamlessly traversed different eras while maintaining their relevance. What started as a freaky, geeky, fresh perspective for Gucci ended in a whirlwind of excess and spectacle, leaving onlookers dazed and confused.
Frida Giannini's tenure at Gucci, from 2006 to 2014, on the other hand, was marked by a distinct vision and self-assurance. Her collections were a continuation of Tom Ford's sensual aesthetic—perhaps the reason why she found it challenging to step out of his shadow. That said, her designs exuded beauty and sophistication. Looking at Giannini's work, you’d never think ‘this seems loud and off’, because that's exactly the impression often associated with Michele's Gucci.
Swinging back to sophistication, Pierpaolo Piccioli's Valentino is also deserving of high-level admiration. His ability to explore colour and elevate couture to iconic status are worthy of recognition and applause. Sure, there may have been a misstep or two *cough* the infamous PP pink collection *cough*, but Piccioli undeniably deserves merit, even from Alessandro, who omitted any mention of his predecessor in his recent statement regarding his new role at the brand. Pierpaolo's departure has left Valentino in near-perfect condition, and Alessandro should have shown the slightest bit of couth by expressing his gratitude for that.
Sure, Valentino is a house that could benefit from an injection of cool, hip aesthetics - creating accessories that will sell like hotcakes will be Michele’s greatest challenge. Regardless, the house of Valentino does not need a complete renovation. What will be interesting, though, is to see what Alessandro does with couture…
Kholi: A shift is coming. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t think he’ll pull off something as groundbreaking as what Demna did at Balenciaga Couture (gotta give credit where credit’s due), but he’s definitely going to shake things up. And when it comes to ready-to-wear, I really hope he doesn’t go overboard by slapping logos on everything.
Verity: Imagine, Vs everywhere. No, but honestly, I’m happy for Alessandro. At least now he can stop applying for job seeker’s allowance. Whether he ends up lining the pockets of Valentino’s investors or not, there’s no doubt he will put on a good show, however many seasons he lasts.
Positive or negative, whatever the outcome, we want to know what you guys think in the comments, or via DM - whatever you fancy. After all, what is tea if not savoured, sipped with affection and discussed?
Someone also giving up their seat in the game of Creative Director musical chairs - Dries Van Noten. No, it ain’t no lie, Dries is waving bye, bye, bye to his namesake label in order to make room for a new generation of designers; the Belgian clearly just wants to tend to his garden, make a brew, then put his feet up after four decades in the role.
Go ahead, Dries, you’ve earned it.
We've mentioned his show several times already so what's once more? That's right. It's John Galliano’s Margiela Couture. Gracing the cover of Vogue Scandinavia, Björk wears the collection’s closing look as worn by Gwendoline Christie Maja Sieroń during fashion week last Feb. We were gagged. Firstly, because it's the Icelandic icon's first-ever Vogue cover, and secondly, because Christie owned that runway in the curve-tucking gown. A true serving moment, your honour.
V: How have we reached 2024 and only now Björk is getting her first Vogue cover? You’d have thought the singer would’ve secured a spot on Edward Enninful’s final spread but then again, there wouldn’t have been space for Lila Moss would there? Whatever, she ate.
K: When shooting with an artist like Björk, you absolutely have to go all out with the art direction. Every aspect needs to possess an added layer of dimension. You need to bring your A-game, and I’m so thankful that the Scandis delivered. As someone aptly put it, ‘she flew the motherplane into the world serve center’.
We don't know what's brewing over at Conde Nast HQ, but their covers are covering! Margaret Zhang’s mic drop moment for Vogue+ was yet another impeccable example. Rihanna, serving as the princess of China, had her skin delicately filtered to resemble a fair complexion, with a strawberry hue on her lips—the perfect way to appeal to the Mainland. Rather than showcase a diverse range of skin tones, Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty team might want to take cues from said approach, considering the Chinese market's preference for a fairer complexion (the sad but true reality).
K: Listen, I lived in China for seven years. While Fenty Skin may appeal to a minute percentage of people of colour living there, tapping into the market will require thorough research. They'll need to feature faces like Liu Wen’s and Xiao Wen Ju to get the 美女 talking. As for the cover: serve after serve after serve. I’m obsessed.
V: If the comments surrounding Zhang’s Vogue tenure are anything to go by then team Fenty better start doing their homework. Alvin Yu, however, clearly ate his Weetabix that morning because the styling was giving. The custom cowgirl look designed by Pharrell for Louis Vuitton slides effortlessly into the zeitgeist. I mean, just keep scrolling.
Galloping into Good Friday and effortlessly breaking l’internet like it's nothing because, well, she's Beyoncé. Lo and behold W magazine’s first-ever digital cover following the release of Cowboy Carter. Bey, styled by Sara Moonves and Shiona Turini, flaunted fresh-off-the-runway looks from AW24, featuring McQueen, Chloé, and Proenza Schouler. Though the makeup might have taken an unfortunate detour through Michèle Lamy's vanity kit, the ensembles were absolutely giving. Thank goodness for that!
Loved, Shopped or Saved
V: Not me trying to have a spring clear-out and then shopping on Beyond Studios and Oh Vintage this Easter weekend. Can you blame me when both sites stock a curated selection of secondhand, mostly designer, pieces? Think Prada, Issey Miyake and Filippa K.
On my list of current faves, this bag from Berlin brand, Lea Roesch, these satin trousers, handmade hardware from Studio Aseo and these ugly but cute Mary Janes from Prada.
What’s on your wishlist, Kholi?
K: I haven’t stopped thinking about *that* Sandy Liang look Ayo Edebiri wore last summer. So, when I spotted something similar from Sister Jane, I couldn’t help but add it to my cart. Also on my list, this ring from By Lia, which features two green zirconia cut into a teardrop shape. I need more accessories. And since I’m taking a break from lipstick, I figured, why not treat myself to this good lip balm to keep my lips luxuriously hydrated?
Thank you for giving Frida Giannini some credit, Her stuff still looks good. I loved it at the time but the press just panned her as boring. God forbid someone makes wearable clothes. The press needs to focus, they tend to be too driven by the low hanging fruit of costumes and click bait. There I said it! But seriously loved your perspective.