January, girl, you were a trip. While awards season in the U.S. spirals into chaos, Europe—ever unbothered—dives straight into Fashion Week, because, well, business is business. With everything moving at an increasingly unhinged pace (weeks? years??, who knows???), now’s the perfect time to take stock of the fashion moments we just witnessed—ones worth remembering and others better left behind.
You can thank us later.
5 THINGS TO REMEMBER
1✨ Kim Jones’ final show for Dior Homme—well, we saw that coming
In his Fashion Neurosis episode, Jonathan Anderson confessed to Bella Freud that his two biggest fashion influences were Miuccia Prada and Hedi Slimane, especially Slimane’s iconic work at Dior Homme. That episode aired just over a month ago, and it was during that conversation that the penny finally dropped: Anderson isn’t just taking over Dior womenswear—he’s coming for menswear too. He wants it all.
As for Jones, he’s rumoured to be heading to Burberry. How do we feel about that? Hard to say. But one thing’s clear: Christopher Bailey’s shoes are proving impossible to fill.
Now, onto this farewell collection. Compared to his previous outings—many of which were, shall we say, colossal disappointments—this swan song felt monumental. Which begs the question: who on that team was working overtime to make sure Jones didn’t leave with egg on his face? He might’ve been the creative director, but this collection? That wasn’t his vision. No receipts necessary—his past does the talking.
And yet, finally—finally—Jones delivered something truly spectacular. The opening look alone was a masterstroke: a bow-cum-blindfold, a black sweater paired with voluminous trousers and a taffeta ball skirt that was actually a coat, worn backwards. The collar formed an asymmetrical cummerbund, while the tucked-in sleeves transformed into pockets. (Thank you, Sarah Mower, for that vivid description on Vogue Runway.)
2✨ Alessandro Michele’s first-ever couture show
The haters are calling it ‘Demna meets Viktor & Rolf’, but in reality, it was the Valentino archives doing all the heavy lifting. His approach? Snag some original looks from Haute Couture SS92, SS85 and FW77 and elevate them—because sometimes, that’s all a creative director really needs to do.
As for the set design? Michele borrowed a page from Balenciaga’s playbook, clearly.
3✨ Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Jean Paul Gaultier Couture
It had that unnerving spectacle McQueen once delivered—poetic, provocative, dark, yet with just a hint of levity. With nautical inspiration tossed in, if The Little Mermaid had more c*nt, well, this would be it.
4✨ Something remarkable unfolding at Copenhagen Fashion Week
Think pointed collars and turtlenecks—subtle yet striking details that set the tone. Brands like MKDT Studio, CMMN SWDN, and Skall Studio crafted everyday magic with suiting that was both effortless and refined. Their ethos? Style is for the wearer who embraces a uniform—but only if it lets them stand out in the quietest, most intentional way.
5✨ Speaking of JPG Couture…
Glenn Martens, who, in our opinion, delivered the house’s most outstanding couture collection to date, has been named creative director of Maison Margiela. When one door closes, another swings wide open, and for Martens, this Margiela appointment cements his place as one of the best white boys in the game.
5 THINGS TO FORGET
1🚫 Schiaparelli’s undeniably beautiful gowns—no shade intended
The issue with this collection, titled Icarus, wasn’t ambition. Daniel Roseberry continues to aim higher each season. He described it himself as an attempt to “challenge the idea that to be modern, it must be simple”—a technical and intellectual exercise blending historical references with contemporary relevance.
But while Roseberry deserves credit for his depth of thought, at some point, we have to ask: Where’s the fun in that though? You could argue that couture is meant to be rigid, that there’s no fun in hand-sewn gowns. But says who exactly?
Schiaparelli is starting to feel a little too stiff, a little too expected. The craftsmanship is undeniable, but where’s the energy? The attitude? The moment—that singular look that sends a jolt through the room, not because Kendall Jenner is wearing it, but because it stirs something visceral.
2🚫 Peter Copping’s debut at Lanvin
What a disappointment. The former Oscar de la Renta designer—who’s also had stints at Louis Vuitton, Sonia Rykiel, and Christian Lacroix—seemed utterly unsure about who the Lanvin customer is. The result? Some objectively hideous printed dresses, the kind you’d expect a semi-retired woman, blissfully indifferent to sunscreen, to wear to dinner after a long day of safari sightseeing.
There were a couple of gems, especially in the closing looks—that’s where you see Copping flexing the same muscle he showed us at Oscar de la Renta. But was it enough to redeem the collection? Not even close.
3🚫 Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior
Her bags are packed anyway. Thank f*ck.
4🚫 Jack Moose, sorry, Jacquemus
Wedged between Menswear and Couture, like he’s manifesting a couture invite (lol, dream on). The girls are saying he hired a former Alaïa designer, which would explain the copy-paste mess that walked the runway. If there’s one thing Jacquemus takes seriously—and actually does well—it’s marketing. Everything else? Just a pile of stuff.
5🚫 Kylie Jenner bailing on walking the JPG show
All because of a last minute foot injury. Girl, you can walk—maybe use that energy to give your sister some lessons, instead of peddling junket fashion at KHY?
EVERYTHING ELSE
☕️ Designers attending other designers' shows is like comfort food—Demna at Valentino, Rick Owens at JPG. It just feels right.
☕️ Our favourite podcast featuring our favourite (and friskiest) guest so far—Stefano Pilati. His ‘ick’ list is endless. Love that.
☕️ Vogue Runway’s Group Chat is a cute lil’ feature, but the girlies in the comments need to refine their tea. Right now, it’s giving too much sugar and full-fat cream (basic).
☕️ FKA Twigs needs to walk Fashion Week. Eusexua makes for a good lunchtime listen, but let’s be real—it’s no Magdalene. Also, her now-iconic Tiny Desk performance? Still capable of sending anyone into orbit.
☕️ As soon as possible, aka, A$AP Rocky, aka Rakim Mayers, making headlines for potentially going to jail? Your honour, this is troubling, especially when you think about the gem he’ll have to leave behind: Riri, queen, we hate this for you.