Good stylist gone rogue
Tennis-bore
We're only mid-month but what a cruel, chaotic yet totally iconic April we're having. Count in (the ongoing) Mercury retrograde, a solar eclipse, New York getting shook, Whimsy Lou Smith's debut, that Rihanna interview, a challenging Challengers press tour and Grimes’ ‘technical’ difficulties at Coachella (FYI Lana is looking so, so good). Oh, and not to forget that it’s Spring so cue the debilitating allergies (hi, Kholi) and the long weekend in Stockholm (bye, Verity)—Jan, Feb and March could never.
Shifting gears from the usual celebrity gossip to explore Hollywood's image makers. You know, the creative minds working behind the scenes to craft looks that would have Joan Rivers applauding from beyond (RIP). Think of Mel Ottenberg: the mastermind behind Rihanna’s iconic naked dress; Law Roach, Zendaya’s fairy godbrother; Dara, Hunter Schafer’s shining twin; Andrew Mukamal, the fashion whisperer who cured Margot Robbie of her inability to serve; the dynamic duo Wayman Bannerman and Micah McDonald consistently delivering lewks for Colman Domingo. And most recently, Julie Ragolia styling the hell outta the hot priest, Andrew Scott, along with a slew of other stylists transforming unconventional talents into fashion icons.
The spotlight is shining on this bunch more than ever. Evident in the intense shade (guilty) thrown at celebrity looks—just search 'fire the stylist' on X and you'll spot A, B, and C-listers at Coachella, looking like cultural appropriators from a Pocahontas cosplay, often topping the list—while these creative forces work day and night to rectify their image.
But, you know, it’s actually not that fun to talk sh*t about the star and stylist duos who constantly miss. So this time, what if we analyse those who rarely do? Starting with the Challengers press tour. Naturally, it makes sense to nominate Law Roach as our first frog subject for dissection.
(Lol, who the f*ck are we kidding?! we love to criticise but… karma)
Revealing Zendaya as their May '24 cover star, British and American Vogue have recently signalled somewhat of a united front, proclaiming: we're not rivals, we're the standard. It's worth noting, though, that American Vogue could never quite reach the same level as its British counterpart, especially not with Bob Wintour reigning supreme and collaborating with her fave photographer, Annie Leibovitz—the one with a talent for draining the life out of her subjects, but kudos for trying.
Back to the cover’s visuals: Are we serious about the leafy-background-and-red-dress-with-floral-appliqué revival? Did everyone forget JLo's moment? Swinging from a tree branch, it's as if Annie said, “Shove that beige woman in a bit of red, chuck in a few plants and think, wild. No need to do something new. They all look the same anyway.”
Verity: Hang on, surely that can’t have been an oversight from Anna? What dirt does Leibovitz have on her? The mind boggles.
Kholi: Have you never heard the story about Anna’s ex-bestie, Vivienne?
V: Enlighten me, please.
K: So, back in the day, Anna would cook up all of Vivienne's favourite meals after school or whatever. And instead of joining in on the feast, Anna, who reportedly only ate a single Granny Smith apple for lunch every day, would just sit there and watch Vivienne chow down. THEN, she'd throw shade at her for her weight.
Maybe Leibovitz is Anna's Granny Smith? An unimaginative choice, that just runs on repeat, lacking in audacity.
V: Wait, Anna cooks?
K: Used to, I suppose? She must've quit years ago because I remember André Leon Tally mentioning in his memoir, The Chiffon Trenches, that her kitchen was always spotless—Bob ne cooketh these days.
Anyway, before the covers dropped, Vogue US teased the internet with a sneak peek into the fashion duo's Zenergy™ with a behind-the-scenes 'Get Ready for the Challengers Premiere' video.
That thumbnail, please. Zendaya, as radiant as ever with a honey-blonde hairdo (wtf is Law doing lurking in the background?), looks genuinely stoked to be there. Roach, however, looks like he lost the lead part in Single White Female. Hit play and it’s clear that the video's aim becomes less about conveying a wholesome interaction between stylist and star and more about how Law would wear Zendaya's skin as a suit if given the opportunity.
As for the dialogue: "It’s our 13th year, I think. We don’t miss. We like Jordan and Pippen, baby." Law practically gushes, prompting Zendaya to respond with a light chuckle and a "period," reminding us that she’s not only ‘that girl’, but also the sweetest of them all. Acknowledging that she is his brightest pupil (everything she knows about fashion she learned from him), from there, Law begins to splurt, "She became this beautiful canvas to help me express myself and let me become this—" before Zendaya interjects. We kinda wish she hadn't - it felt like Roach was in the midst of sharing something deeply poetic and potentially tragic.
We gotta ask, what is it that Law truly wants to become? Let’s delve a little deeper.
V: Woah, woah, woah, can we just dial it back a sec? The language used by Law in this video! Zendaya, like, blink twice if you need help girl. All the ‘me, myself’, I get that he’s trying to add some spice to his CV but it’s freaking me out a little.
K: Yeah, no—something is way off. Like, they're ‘family’, but it's just a little weird how he's trying to make her moment all about him. I mean, I know it's important to take up space in an industry that, especially as a Black creative, kicks you to the curb if you're not delivering. But can you wait your turn? This isn’t your moment, hon.
In an Interview interview with Mel Ottenberg back in June ‘23, Law spilled the tea on his styling career, retirement and the rollercoaster of emotions that led up to it, as well as his unique bond with Zendaya. From teaching her to walk in ankle-breaking heels (we're talking 120mm Louboutins!), to styling her post-retirement, Law's got quite the story. But just when you think the man’s sched is full, he starts chatting about what he's dying to start next.
Now, the obvious next move for Law would be taking over magazines, right? Maybe even snagging the role of EIC at a glossy mag that hasn’t been liquidated. Mel Ottenberg did it, ascending transitioning from styling to his high-profile role, practically like fashion royalty. Law should totally follow suit, no? Well, surprise, surprise—that's not his plan post-retirement. Plot twist, the interview goes on to reveal something unexpected: he's eyeing another (?) movie gig.
Law is desperate for a new canvas to express himself, only this time, it's the silver screen calling his name. The question is, will Zendaya continue to be his muse, or is he the one taking notes, learning the ropes to become the next big star… like her?
Roach goes on to say that his “dream role is a cross-dressing, heroin-addicted prostitute that is functional, that still gets up and goes to work.” Watch this space.
“I want to try a bunch of sh*t. We’re creatives, right? I want to see what else I’m good at. If nothing else works out, then I’ll just be a stylist again. But we know things are going to work out. I want to do something with A24, or with somebody like Sam Levinson, somebody cool.”
That canvas is ready to go on exhibition, people. No longer is the dream to be behind the scenes; but to BE the scene.
Months and months go by, with no news of Roach going rogue as an actor anytime soon, it’s safe to say that his role as ‘Image Architect’ for Zendaya is still a thing. At least for now. Roach puts on a show for Zendaya, because it’s her show, not his. He’s just there to collect his paycheque. Though, we have to admit that his latest projects for Challengers has been a double fault.
It's giving gimmicky. Not quite capturing the essence of preppy style, and ending up as a ‘rummaged through the archives while also commissioning a custom gown adorned with racket embellishments just to drive the point home.’ vibe. The Vivienne Westwood look used as Carrie Bradshaw inspo was certainly a choice. The tail might’ve wagged but our tongues were far from it. It was, sadly, a miss. Although, we will acknowledge that On recreating the iconic white of American tennis player and golfer, Althea Gibson, moment was super cute. But so far, this press tour isn’t quite satisfying our cravings as anticipated. Shame.
V: I so wanted this press tour to be on a level with Dune: Part Two but it’s just too obvious. Trying to pass off Loewe stilettos as custom when it’s just a pair of heels with tennis balls attached? C’mon.
K: Exactly! Let's kick it up a notch. Give us fantasy, give us cinema on the red carpet. I was really hoping that with Jonathan Anderson's mind, they would collaborate on the looks and create some out-there moments. Give us Loewe, if she dared to dip her toes into couture. That’s what we needed. But then, to give us that stiletto...
V: The tennis balls should have been the shoes. Like. White stilettos are also a firm favourite of the Manchester Nightlife girls, FYI.
K: And that's where they truly belong, honestly. Enough with the 'Betty Comes to Town' pump. I'm just so over the tennis whites in general. It's starting to feel like the Barbie press tour, but with all that ivory overload. Ugh.
V: That’s it! Wimbledon Barbie. Over it.
No guesses for who we’re not over… the scream we scrome when Mel Ottenberg and Nadia Lee brought out the original It-girl, Rihanna.
Let's brew this next cup in honour of the golden duo that is Mel and Rih Rih. In an interview with System Magazine, Ottenberg poured out his fondest memories of styling Rihanna, recalling the captivating naked dress designed by his former partner, Adam Selman, as one memorable sip. But the ultimate blend? The unforgettable 2015 Met Gala gown by Guo Pei. Of that, Ottenberg reflected:
“At the time people didn’t really pay that much attention to the theme of the Met Gala when they were thinking about what they would be wearing. I feel like that Guo Pei look is given a lot of credit for really changing that, because that year the gala was in celebration of their China show [China: Through the Looking Glass], and Rihanna was the only famous person who wore a Chinese designer on that red carpet. That particular look was her idea. I just take credit for making the impossible happen.”
Can we just take a moment and appreciate celebrities with an innate sense of style? Please?
K: I love it when celebs have a hands-on approach with their stylists. It shows they're not just passively rocking a look but actually invested in crafting their own image. Also, on this note, when Zendaya mentioned she sent that iconic Mugler suit to Law, I was shook. She’s actually into fashion more than we think.
V: I’d like to imagine that if, IF, I were famous and had a stylist, we’d work together in collaboration and not be the ‘dolly dress up’ type of client. Rihanna is far from that, she knows what she wants and it’s great to see someone who can vibe with her to create magic.
K: Even then, after all these years, discovering that the Guo Pei look was her idea? THAT’s why she’s mother!
V: In-f*cking-sane, mate.
Returning to the Holy Mother look and Interview, Ottenberg absolutely nailed it with the styling. He sensed what was lacking in the fashion scene and rescued us from banality. When discussing the shoot's vibe, he noted, "Okay, what are the people missing from Rihanna? They’re really missing the cuntiest, sickest-smelling Rihanna red carpet looks." He gets it. What's equally remarkable about this editorial is Rihanna's fearless abandonment of conventionally attractive looks. She's beyond that—she's a risk taker and a fashion chameleon in her own right.
Big shoutout also to Nadia Lee Cohen for her meticulous work behind the lens, sourcing references from various media and presenting them in a way that perfectly suited Rihanna. THIS is what we want a fashion moment to give. We want our icons to go rogue, but in a truly remarkable way—defying expectations and ultimately leaving us gagged.